UP THE VALLEY 1905
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Up the Valley in 1905
In 1905 a correspondent of the Wairarapa Daily Times described a coach trip from Masterton towards Gladstone, over the Kourarau Hill and then northward in the upper Wainuioru Valley to Stronvar. Here is his description of the journey, omitting the first stretch.
RAMBLES TO THE EAST AND NORTH-EAST OF MASTERTON.
(By a Travelling Correspondent.)
Reaching the summit of the Maungaraki, at an altitude of over 1000 ft, a magnificent view is unfolded. To the west the blue forest-clad Tararua Mountains and the level Wairarapa plains intersected by rivers and dotted with many homesteads. Eastward the eye rests on a portion of the Wainuioru Valley, the green pastures of Westmere, the Bank View homestead, the rock pinnacles of the Taipo and Brocken Ranges, and in the distance the brown-looking hills stretching onwards to the seaward range, the highest point of which is Pukuroro.
Descending the range it is pleasing to note that a long-felt want has been carried out, viz., the metalling of the road as far as the Westmere dam, this will be much appreciated by carriers and others. The day may not be far distant when most of the East Coast and Wainuioru traffic will diverge at the Westmere junction, avoiding the long steep grading of the Maungaraki, and pass along the flat valley of Westmere to the Cross, and thence via Weraiti to Masterton, a great saving in distance to say nothing of having to ascend to a height of some 1200 feet as against 300 to 400.
The Brancepeth estate is so well-known as to scarcely need any description. It comprises an extent of some 60,000 acres of splendid pastoral hill country, interspersed here and there with some good agricultural land. It is marked for turning off on the grass alone large numbers of fat sheep, lambs and cattle. This speaks volumes for the fertility of the soil that this can be done without the aid of turnips or rape. I am informed that the large estate has been recently subdivided between the several members of Mr T. C. Williams' and the Messrs Beethams' families—a natural division without the interference of the Government bursting-up process.
Quite a striking feature on the Messrs J Beethams' portion of the estate is the handsome new mansion being erected by Messrs C. E. Daniell for Mr H. H. Beetham on the site of the old homestead. With its square tower and imposing front it presents a unique appearance from the Fernyhurst road [now known as the Stronvar road], and adds materially to the beauty of the landscape, as it stands embowered in a plantation of trees. A commodious woolshed is also about to be built near the junction of the Westmere and Fernyhurst roads.
Leaving Brancepeth, the property of Mr E. Chalmers [Fernyhurst] is entered, the homestead not being visible from the road. The land, though not so rich as some in the district, grows good healthy stock. A large area being arable, and produces excellent stock on turnips and oats. The condition of the pastures seems much improved of late years.
From thence onwards Pukutiritiri, the property of Mr Jackson is reached, this gentleman is a new settler, and evidently is bent on progress. That magician, " the plough," has been set to work; the result a first-rate crop of turnips, indicating what the land will do if properly worked.
Onwards again and to the right comes in view the foot hills of the Brocken Range, Mr Adam Armstrong's run known as Mangaru, a healthy piece of pastoral land. The buildings of Mr Toogood's flax mill then appears. The mill has not been working for some time, awaiting the re-growth of the flax which should be ready for the stripper in another season.
The homesteads of Mr C. Rogers and Mr Jas. McRae are next reached—the end of my wanderings in this direction. These gentlemen are making improvements and getting their land under grass. At Mr McRae's house is located the local Post Office (Stronvar), and it is here that Mr S. Forman's coach ends its Sunday journey. Mr McRae is a typical Celt—hard-working, and one from whom the weary traveller always receives a hospitable welcome.
In wandering through this large scope of country, there are several noticeable features. The rabbit pest is a thing of the past, and as a consequence the grassing of the country is much improved. Noxious weeds are very little in evidence, while stock everywhere look in splendid condition to face the winter. The great drawback settlers have to contend with is the unmetalled state of the roads, and it would add much to the productiveness of the district, particularly the Fernyhurst and Stronvar portions, if more direct communication could be established with Masterton, via the Weraiti-road, which would save a distance of from six to seven miles.
RAMBLES TO THE EAST AND NORTH-EAST OF MASTERTON, Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 8135, 8 May 1905
The original is at https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WDT19050508.2.6
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